Taiwan Part 2 - Kaohsiung

After four days in Taipei, we boarded the brand new super fast train that took us all the way South to Taiwan's second largest city, Kaohsiung. This was Brian's first experience on a real train. The ride was several hours and I loved getting to see Taiwan's countryside and "smaller" cities from the window. Brian did well as long as he had snacks and entertainment. Here is a picture of him with his daddy. The stickers on his face were just one of the many things we used throughout the trip as entertainment.


We went to Kaohsiung for several reasons. First, to visit Mark's mother's sister who lives there right now. Second, because Mark's mom grew up in that city and I wanted to see where she had lived, and third because we wanted to see more of Taiwan than Taipei, and Kaohsiung is a warmer fun place to visit. It was so fun to see where Mark's mom grew up and to have her show us her old house and neighborhood.


The day after we arrived in Kaohsiung, Mark's aunt's husband took us on one of the nicest outings of the week. We took the ferry out to a tourist island called Qijin. It was a beautiful day full of sunshine and ocean breezes.

I loved the boat ride. There is just something about the sea air and the sound of the boat moving through the water that makes me smile.

The island was full of little tourist shops and restaurants. We stopped at a few places as we walked the island to buy Brian a hat and to buy bottles of fresh sweet sugar cane juice.


We got to the other side of the island and the buildings opened up to the expanse of the ocean. Brian was in awe. After trying several times, we gave up on getting him to look away from the ocean and at the camera for a picture.


This was his first time ever putting his toes in the sea. He was tentative at first, like he is with most new experiences, but after a few minutes he warmed up to the idea of the beach and loved it, that is until he got a wave full of sand in his face.



After the ferry ride back to the main island we stopped for what I am missing right now, Taiwan's famous shaved ice. Now I know when I say shaved ice most of you picture a little snow cone with blue syrup on the top. Well this is not a blue snow cone. It is more like a meal. You can choose from hundreds of things to put on top of your bowl of shaved ice. I personally like a variety of Taiwan's delicious fresh fruit topped with sweet and condensed milk. Mark prefers his ice with red bean, condensed milk, a raw egg and ice cream.

Brian had so much fun that morning that even though it was only about 11:30 am, he just couldn't make it home for his nap. Now why didn't he do that on the airplane coming here?

The time in Kaohsiung was relaxed and laid back. We stayed at Mark's aunt's house and spent time there eating and enjoying each others company. This "hat" Brian is wearing is the rind from a pomelo, or in my mind a really big grapefruit. Oh how I miss the fresh fruit and bread from Taiwan.
Brian and daddy just hanging out after an afternoon nap.


None of the places we stayed had bathtubs. Brian enjoyed the showers, but when Mark decided to fill up this mop bucket with water for Brian's bath, Brian couldn't get enough.

Playing with his cuppies (stacker cups)

We spent one day in Kaohsiung visiting Mark's mom's old house and walking around her neighborhood. She was surprised to see that this Japanese restaurant was still open. She and Daniel went on one of their first dates here.


Alice gave us a tour through the market place that she would visit almost daily when she was a girl. There were venders there that she remembers buying food from as a child. They have been selling the same products in the same little space for over forty years.


This picture in in front of the house she grew up in. It is currently being used as a church.
Her house is the short white section of building just above Mark's head. It was so fun to imagine her living, walking and going to school in this area.

More fish viewing for Brian. . .
. . .and more playgrounds with slides.

Later that same evening, after we all had a nice nap, we decided to go back to that very same Japanese restaurant that Mark's parents went to when they were dating. It turned out to be a fantastic authentic Japanese dining experience.
It was definitely Brian's favorite place to eat. We were in our own little room and sitting on the floor. What more could a little guy ask for if he had to eat out with the adults? He could run around and roll around on the bamboo floor mats and even play with his belly button without anyone asking him to stop.


After dinner we went back to the apartment to put Brian to sleep. Then Mark's aunt and uncle stayed home with him and allowed me, Mark and his parents to go out for a few hours. The Lantern Festival was just beginning and there was an incredible celebration down on the banks of the Ai Hu, or Love River. Of course there were lanterns lit and a fun celebratory atmosphere.
Numerous street performers entertained us. . .
. . .and there was a spectacular fire works show over the beautiful river. We took a fun boat tour up the river and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves on this one night out without Brian.

The next morning we said goodbye to the relatives and took the train back up to Taipei.
We arrived in Taipei in time for a delicious dinner with the Hsiao relatives again and a good nights sleep. The next day we said our goodbyes to the bird. . .
. . .Great Grandma, the other family members, and finally to Taiwan itself.

I am more than happy to report that the flight home was just opposite of the flight to Taiwan. This time we ordered the baby bassinet for Brian.

On the way there we didn't even think it was an option because he didn't meet the size requirements. He was well under the weight limit, but oh about 6 inches too long for the thing. Gratefully his length didn't keep him from getting excited about having his very own "bed" on the airplane. After several hours of walking up and down every aisle of the plane with Ye Ye and allowing his Nai Nai to entertain him, he decided to fall asleep in his "bed". It was an absolute miracle. I couldn't believe my eyes. He slept peacefully like this for about five hours. Now five hours isn't even close to his usual 12 hours of sleep at night, but it was unbelievable for Brian in this situation. Not only did he sleep on this flight, but on the flight from L.A. to Salt Lake he passed out on my lap in the middle of take off and slept until we descended into the valley. What a way to end one amazing vacation.

Taiwan Part 1 - Taipei

I have been wanting to post about Taiwan for over a week now, but I just didn't get to it in between every one of us being sick with a nasty stomach something and Brian refusing to sleep for hours at a time in the middle of the night. Finally he slept through the night last night and I feel like life can go on.

Travel To Taiwan

Our trip to Taiwan was truly amazing and went so well, all except for the travel there. We left our house at about 4:30 pm on Wed. Feb. 17. Ten minutes before we left, Brian came down with the worst diarrhea he's ever had and he leaked out of his diaper all over his travel clothes, which I had carefully chosen for him. I put him in another outfit and we drove to Mark's parents house to meet up with them before going to the airport. As soon as we arrived, Brian threw up all over their floor and the second pair of carefully picked travel clothes. Luckily Mark's Mom Alice had an extra pair of clothes for him so I wouldn't have to use more clothes from his suitcase. By this point I was getting really worried about taking the little guy traveling for the next 20 hours. Not wanting to cancel the whole trip, we decided to give it a try.

The flight to L.A. was surprisingly smooth and easy. Brian was excited to be on a plane and in the airports and he seemed to be feeling well even though he was sick and it was way past his bedtime already. Our flight from L.A. to Taiwan was leaving L.A. at almost midnight our time. Brian has NEVER stayed up that late in his life. He and I were doing fine while waiting at the L.A. airport, until he had another massive diaper blowout and I had to change all his clothes yet again. At that point worry after worry went through my head. Was Brian going to be alright? Were we going to get an empty seat next to us on this "full" fourteen hour flight etc. etc.? We hadn't purchased a seat for Brian and I started to have horrible visions of holding an almost 2 year old on my large pregnant lap for 14 hours. Luckily the man who was originally seated next to us was more than willing to give up his seat in favor of one of the few other empty seats on the plane. One worry down, 50 more to go.

I have no pictures on the flight to Taiwan. I remember the thought briefly crossing my mind to document all our travels, but it was immediately squashed by the thought that there is no way I would ever want to remember the nightmare we were in. Now that I look back, it doesn't seem so horrible and I actually want to remember it, but at the time those 14 hours on that plane seemed like the worst 14 hours of my life. Brian threw up all over himself, Mark, his blankie, his pajamas, his doggy, an extra towel and the floor of the plane. I changed 10 total messy diapers on that flight with Brian screaming and struggling every time. His usual messy diaper count within 24 hours is one or two at the most. I am just lucky I was over prepared and packed exactly 10 diapers in the carry-on. I could tell he was starting to get dehydrated and we did all we could to get some fluids in him, but I couldn't help but worry that we were going to need a doctor over the middle of the Pacific Ocean. He finally fell asleep about five hours into the flight, which was around 5:00am our time, only because Mark stood in the aisle and rocked him. Mark held him like that for about an hour and then we were able to get him to stay asleep on the seat between us for another hour or so. The peace didn't last long though and he woke up screaming again and begging to go "outside."

Overall he only slept about 2 hours on that 14 hour flight, which had begun in the middle of the night our time. I guess I should not have been surprised by this. Ever since Brian was born he has refused to sleep anywhere but his own bed or a travel crib. Sometimes he can be the most stubborn child I have ever met. Brian would not let Mark's parents help much on the flight either. They were able and kind enough to help us clean up the throw up and pin the wild man down a few times while I changed his diaper, but other than that he just wanted me or Mark to hold him while we stood in the isle of the cramped plane. I've never seen Mark so willing to help with Brian and I think I would have died without his company, support and patience even though he was just as or more exhausted than I was. Thank you Mark for taking the brunt of the physical work on the airplane.



Eventually we made it to Taiwan and I tried to put the experience on the plane out of my mind for the remainder of the trip so I woudn't be plagued with worry about how the flight home would be. As we staggered onto solid ground all my exhausted mind could think about was getting to the hotel and getting Brian to sleep in his travel crib and me and baby to sleep in a bed. At home it was almost night again and we had gone through two days and a whole night with only two hours of disturbed sleep. But wait, can we check in to the hotel at 6:30 am? We arrived at Mark's grandmother's apartment and called the hotel to find out check-in wasn't until 3:00 pm. It seriously took all I had to put on a smile and gear up for the wait. We were happy to be there and I was happy to see Mark's grandma and other relatives, but we were just so tired. Not only could we not check in to the hotel for hours, but it was pouring near freezing rain outside and grandma's apartment was like an icebox. Remember that we are used to dry cold and humid cold is much different.

The unbelievable thing to me was that Brian was actually being so good, especially for the circumstances. I think at that point he was just so grateful to be off the plane. He refused to fall asleep at Nai Nai's (Mark's Grandma's) apartment, but he was generally happy to play with his great-grandma and great aunt. I think mostly we have Nai Nai's little bird to thank for that. She has this beautiful little love bird that likes attention and Brian gave it plenty of attention. Nai Nai showed Brian how to gently stick a chopstick in the cage and the bird would chew on it while Brian laughed and laughed.

Taipei

Mark's dad relentlessly called the hotel during those cold tired hours at grandmas house and the hotel staff finally let us check in at 12:00 pm rather than 3:00pm. Mark, Brian and I all had a glorious 4-5 hours of comfortable warm sleep. Mark's parents spoiled us by putting us up in one of Taipei's nicest hotels located less than a block from grandmas where they were staying. We woke up that evening ready to go out, even in the cold rain, to experience the streets of Taipei and some delicious heart warming Nu ruo Mien, Taiwan's famous beef noodle soup. The crowded, uneven, dirty and often wet streets and alleyways definitely lend to using the backpack over the stroller. Boy am I glad we packed the backpack and that Mark didn't mind carrying Brian around everywhere. We usually will trade off carrying it, but at seven months pregnant with no waist to hold the weight I wasn't any help this time. Brian was in heaven of course. He has loved riding in that backpack since he was 5 months old, plus there was so much for him to see on the streets of Taipei.

The next few days were filled with fun outings in the city and delicious food with relatives. Mark's parents were so accommodating and we didn't take any long trips away from the hotel for Brian's sake. He slept like a dream and adjusted surprisingly well to a completely flipped schedule as long as we got him back to the hotel for a nap. I think he and I needed that sleep just to recover from the painful plane ride. He got over his illness quickly and didn't have any more blowouts or throw up episodes. The weather warmed up and we didn't get rained out again the whole trip. Life was beautiful and continued on so until we arrived home. How blessed we were! It was fantastic!


Brian enjoyed the city life! He loved taking all forms of transportation. This was his first time riding on a subway train and he kept saying "train" and looking around like he was absolutely fascinated.


We visited the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall and park in Taipei. It was a beautiful place to walk around and enjoy the architecture and gardens.


There were some fun things set up for kids. These dinosaurs looked so real and they moved as well.


Brian was so spoiled in entire trip. He had four adults at his bidding and he always got what he wanted.

The first few days we were in Taiwan overlapped the Chinese New Year holiday vacation and the park had these huge tents set up with all sorts of children's carnival games and food. Brian couldn't get enough of every booth and game. He convinced his grandparents to spend all of their spare change on him. Here he is catching his own little fish, which he could have taken home if he lived in Taipei.


Of course any little ride was a hit with him and he rode this funny little train around over and over again.

The garden's were beautiful and it was so nice to be in a place that is so green!


This is one of the many delicious dinners we enjoyed with Mark's relatives. Mark is sitting next to his 98 year old grandmother. By the end of the vacation, Brian was definitely done with restaurants. I think the only restaurant I'll be taking him to for awhile is McDonald's with a play place. Mark and I sure enjoyed the food though. Amazing.

This walkway was part of the hotel we stayed in. The meals Brian actually did enjoy eating were the awesome hotel breakfasts, because we would set his chair looking out the window on the right in the picture below, and he would watch the fish swim around and the people walking their dogs. Some of the walkers would even look over and wave to Brian.


Mark and his dad cannot get enough of this breakfast dish while they are in Taipei. Salty soy milk soup, or xian dou jiang, with all sorts of stuff in it including chili sauce, shrimp, green onions, vinegar, and other questionable ingredients.
Brian in front of Taiwan's capitol building.


Fortunately Taiwan has a goodly number of playgrounds for children. Brian was surprisingly social with the Taiwanese kids and he would talk to them and follow them around even though he had no clue what they were saying.


He is also particularly fond of slides. If ever there was a slide in view there was no going anywhere without a few slides down. This large cement slide was much faster than it looked and required a little help from his parents.


Another Taiwan pastime Brian will remember forever is the fish viewing. Taiwan has ponds everywhere and each one has swarms of koi. The next two pictures are watching the fish at another one of Taipei's beautiful parks.




The culminating event of our time in Taiwan's capitol, and the reason we went when we did, was for Nai Nai's 98th Birthday celebration. It was the fanciest dinner I have ever been to and in all the years married to Mark, I have never eaten a meal like I did that night. Let's just say shark fin soup and ox tail were only 2 of 20 or so other items served, the majority of them were amazing sea food dishes.

Nai Nai is one incredible person. She may be little physically, but the last thing you could call her personality is small. She is 98 years old and has a mind as sharp as a fox. She is fiercely independent, incredibly generous and an extremely proud matriarch of the Hsiao family.


I love the following picture. Four generations of Hsiaos. A mother with her son, who is with his son, who is with his son. I look at her next to Brian and I am overwhelmed with gratitude and love for this woman. It is because of her that these three guys whom I love so much are even here.


All of Nai Nai's children that were in Taipei at the time came to this celebration. She has six wonderful children. Two sons and four daughters.


Happy Birthday Nai Nai! We love you!


Brian spent most of the eating part of the dinner in the hallway. When he decides he doesn't want to sit quietly at the table there is nothing we can do to change his mind unless everyone there wants to hear him and only him for a really long time. So we take turns finding something else for him to do. Here he's going on a ride on Nai Nai's birthday welcome sign, when the staff asked Mark to stop he just pretended he didn't speak Chinese and kept pushing.


Stay tuned for the next episode, Kaohsiung...